The Maria Island Walk Tasmanian Experience

Join us for three unforgettable days on Maria Island.

We have developed an exclusive experience for Tasmanians while they can’t travel further afield. Explore the northern end of Maria Island with our experienced local guides for an opportunity to climb spectacular peaks, encounter an abundance of wildlife and experience some of the highlights of the island in comfort. You’ll stay in Bernacchi House, a beautifully restored heritage home in the convict settlement of Darlington which is exclusively used by guests of The Maria Island Walk. At the end of the day, relax in front of the wood fire with a glass of Tasmanian wine and let your guide prepare you a sumptuous three course meal showcasing local Tasmanian produce.

Take the opportunity to enjoy Maria Island in style for the heavily discounted locals price of $999 per person. This offer is exclusively available for the local Tasmanian market for a limited time. While the borders are closed, why not take advantage and explore your own backyard?

Includes:

  • Two friendly, knowledgable and passionate guides
  • Two nights comfortable, twin-share accommodation at the beautifully restored Bernacchi House in Darlington
  • All meals and drinks, including restaurant quality meals prepared with gourmet Tasmanian produce and matched with fine Tasmanian wines and local beers
  • Ferry crossing from Triabunna to Maria Island
  • Use of gear including day packs and waterproof jackets
  • National Parks entry fees
  • A maximum of eight guests per group to ensure personalised and safe service

For more information, please see our information sheet, contact us at 03 6234 2999 or email us at bookings@mariaislandwalk.com.au.

You can also check availability and book online.

For the full The Maria Island Walk experience, our four day walk is also open for booking from October to April. Please visit our website for more information.

 

Our Top Hiking Essentials

There is nothing quite as healthy for both body and mind as going for a long hike. But to get the most out of the experience and not be distracted by discomfort or worry, it pays to follow the Scout’s motto and be prepared! The first thing to consider is the weather, and if you are hiking in a place like Tasmania, that can be a massive variable. Have a good look at the forecast for the area you plan to explore and the duration of your trip, and then pack accordingly- always being ready for conditions to be a bit worse than predicted. But hiking isn’t just about survival, it’s also about enjoyment, and below you will find a few items that may not be considered essential survival equipment but are things we reach for every trip.

Footwear

Consider the terrain you will be walking through and personal preferences. A good pair of lightweight waterproof hiking boots are a great all-rounder you can take almost anywhere, but sometimes trail runners can be a great choice too. Consider your socks as well; a set of merino or merino blend socks will go a long way in reducing your risk of developing blisters. If heading out on a multi-day hike, having a lightweight pair of sandals or sneakers to slip your feet into at the end of the day is always pleasant.

Hiking boots

Clothing

Natural layers are the best option. In cold wintery conditions, having a merino thermal layer against your skin goes a long way in raising your comfort level and hence morale. A long-sleeved shirt for sunny conditions can also be essential. Personally, we love a silk shirt in summer. A sunhat and comfy beanie for chilly conditions are also a must. When hiking in Tasmania, particularly in the colder months or in the mountains, having a synthetic pile jacket that will retain its thermal qualities when wet is a great idea – one usually gets most chilled when sitting around camp or stopping for snacks, and being able to throw a thick warm jacket on makes a big difference.

Rain Protection

It rains a lot in some parts of Tasmania. This means it is essential to be ready for wet conditions. Not only do you need to be able to keep yourself dry, you also need to be able to keep all your gear dry, including valuable and vulnerable electronics! Invest in a good quality Gore-Tex or similar rain jacket and lightweight overpants. If venturing into the mountains, considering also taking waterproof gloves or mittens. Have both a cover for you backpack and have everything inside it in lightweight dry bags. Make sure you can waterproof your camera, phone, and any other electronics you might have. Camping stores stock an array of creative options to achieve this.

Entertainment

There can be a lot of down time when hiking, particularly in bad weather on multi-day hikes. Come prepared for this and you’ll never be bored outdoors again! Books can be heavy but e-readers aren’t, and you can stock up on titles before heading out. We always take earphones and have some great music as well as some podcasts and audio books saved on our phones for engaging content on track. A pack of cards (and the rules of a few fun games!) can provide hours of entertainment with a small group.

Delicious Food

Take lots of snacks you know you’ll enjoy! Make sure you bring enough food for your hike. Nobody wants to carry unnecessary weight in their bag, but being hungry is far more miserable! Snacking often also keeps your energy levels up and makes your trip more enjoyable. Muesli bars, nuts and fruit are great snacking options… and it always pays off to have a stash of chocolate!

Other Essentials

Don’t forget to bring appropriate maps of the area you are exploring, plus a headtorch, first aid supplies and a pocket knife.

If this all seems a bit overwhelming, why not book onto a guided hike where the planning is taken care of and most of your gear is supplied? Heading out on a multi-day guided walk such as The Maria Island Walk can give you a taste of what is involved and lets you work out your own system and discover what works for you. We will also provide a gear list so that you know exactly what you need to bring. For more information, call 03 6234 2999 or email bookings@mariaislandwalk.com.au. Alternatively, book online.

 

8 Things to do in Tasmania

Tasmania is a small island, but it is incredibly varied. Every year more and more exciting options open up for the traveller, and it is possible to return again and again and keep on discovering new hidden corners of the state. Below are some of our favourites.

1.Go on a self-guided driving tour.

Bring your car over from the mainland or hire one down here for the ultimate freedom to explore. Head up the East Coast for a week to experience beautiful white beaches and hidden coves, as well as some of the best vineyards in the State. Or why not pack up the car and head for the wild West Coast with its dense forests, plunging valleys and quartzite mountains? Here is wilderness and remoteness on a scale seldom experienced.

2. Go on an adventure cruise.

Get up close and personal with seal colonies and some of the tallest sea cliffs in the world on a cruise around Bruny Island or the Tasman Peninsula. Great for the whole family, this will be a day trip you will never forget. If you find yourself on the West Coast, and visit to Strahan wouldn’t be complete without heading up the Gordon River for a day to experience the still, dark waters of Macquarie Harbour and learn about the Huon Pine story and the fascinating convict history of Tasmania

3. Visit a distillery or vineyard.

With literally hundreds to choose from and situated in every corner of the State, some of our favourites include Springvale Estate on the East Coast which also has a great restaurant, Shene Distillery outside Hobart, Willies Smith’s Apple Shed in the Huon Valley, and Every Man and His Dog in the Coal Valley.

MONA Museum Hobart

Image: www.hobartandbeyond.com.au

4. Head out to MONA.

Can you really say you have visited Hobart if you haven’t been out to this world-famous museum? Splash out and get tickets for the Posh Pit on the ferry from Hobart, set aside a whole day, and get lost in the whole bizarre experience. With the exhibits changing regularly and a huge maze of a complex to get lost in, it is easy to return to MONA again and again and still discover more oddities.

5. Embrace the foodie scene.

Why not get the most out of Tasmania’s excellent fresh produce and world class food with a dining experience? The Agrarian Kitchen not only serves amazing food, but you can also take a cooking course on their beautiful paddock-to-plate small farm located in the stunning Derwent Valley just half an hour from Hobart. With an ethos of simplicity and sustainability, the menu reflects seasonal changes and local produce.

The Maria Island Walk Wilderness Camps

6. Go on a multi-day guided hike.

To get the most out of Tasmania’s wilderness, you really need to immerse yourself in it for days at a time. And what better way to do this than by going “glamping?” With all the luxuries of good food, fine wine, and experienced guides to provide insight and take care of logistics, glamping is still a simple immersion in landscape that allows you to slow down and experience the place you are in without the distractions on civilisation. The Maria Island Walk offers that perfect mix of simplicity and comfort.

7. Stay at a boutique hotel.

Why not treat yourself to something special and spend a few days at a place like Saffire, located at the edge of the stunning Freycinet National Park, or Pumphouse Point, situated on the remote and breath-taking Lake St Clare? Surrounded by the landscapes and wilderness Tasmania is famous for, with world-class service and welcoming hospitality, it is guaranteed to be an unforgettable experience.

Tasmanian devil at Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary

Image: Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary

8. Visit a wildlife sanctuary.

The best way to get up close and personal with some of Tasmania’s unique animals whilst also contributing to conservation efforts is to visit a wildlife sanctuary such as Bonorong, located just outside Hobart. Here you will learn about the island’s unique fauna and the threats they face, as well as being able to see such iconic species such as the Tasmanian Devil and the Spotted Tail Quoll.

For more information about a four day guided walk, contact The Maria Island Walk on 03 6234 2999 or book online.

 

The Beautiful Flora of Tasmania

There are few places in the world that can boast the biological diversity we have in Tasmania. Once a part of the supercontinent of Gondwana, after its breakup our island state was lucky enough to maintain a similar climate for the past 70-odd million years, which means we have many “living fossil” species thriving in various ideal habitats. Tasmania’s complex terrain, diverse geology, its proximity to the mainland of Australia and yet its relative isolation as an island, all combine to give us a native flora that is staggering in both its diversity and its beauty. It is possible to stand in a rainforest that has species almost unchanged from when dinosaurs roamed the earth, and then, after less than an hour’s drive, be looking out through a dry eucalypt forest, one of the most recently evolved and fire adapted ecosystems on the planet.

The best way to appreciate Tasmania’s flora is by heading out for a hike in one of our beautiful National Parks. There you can lose yourself for hours in nature and find yourself constantly surprised by what you discover. The best time of year for wildflowers is November to mid-January, depending on the year, the location, and what you are hoping to find.

Pigface on the beach at Maria Island

Tasmanian Flora

As an introduction to Tasmanian flora, let’s start in the Tasmanian mountains and work our way down to sea level, pausing to admire seven distinctive Tasmanian plants along the way.

Richea scoparia. Scoparia.

One of the most spectacular wildflowers when in bloom, this low spikey shrub is ubiquitous with the Tasmanian High Country. Growing over the 900m elevation mark, this hardy plant thrives in our harsh winters. Forming extremely dense thickets, its short spikey leaves pierce clothing (and skin!) easily, creating a love/hate relationship with many bushwalkers. It makes up for this with a spectacular display of flowers in December and January. Flower spikes up to 12cm tall burst into bloom, the colours ranging from white to orange to pink and red. The petals completely enclose the stamens, and the plant relies on skinks (small lizards) and currawongs (a bird in the crow family) to chew through the petals and so cross-pollinate. There are few more spectacular displays than a huge swathe of scoparia in flower beside an alpine tarn, surrounded by dolerite mountains. Best place to see: Walls of Jerusalem National Park.

Isophysis tasmanica. Tasmanian Purplestar.

This beautiful and rarely-seen plant grows on mountainsides in the south and west. Growing in low alpine heathlands, the large purple flower is striking, made more so because it grows so remotely it is rarely seen by anyone other than dedicated bushwalkers. Best place to see: Southwest National Park.

Telopea truncata. Tasmanian Waratah.

This beautiful red flower is endemic to our island state and is much smaller and more fragile-looking than those found on the mainland. It flowers in November-December, and the flowers produce so much nectar it often literally overflows from the petals. It is a valuable food source for many birds, as well as the adorable pygmy possum. Best place to see: Cradle Mountain Lake St Clare National Park.

Pink Tasmanian Waratah plant

Eucryphia lucida. Leatherwood.

This beautiful rainforest tree is the source of our famous leatherwood honey. Flowering January-February, the large white flowers can be so dense the tree appears to be covered in blooms, the forest floor carpeted in fallen petals. The leatherwood is a great example of our unique Gondwanan heritage, as its closest relative grows in South America, another clue that these two continents were once joined together. Growing in cool temperate rainforest, this tree thrives in undisturbed valleys with high rainfall. Best place to see: Mt Field National Park, Hartz Mountain National Park.

Richea dracophylla. Dragonheath.

This beautifully-named plant grows in low alpine forests, particularly the cloudforests on the Tasman Peninsula and Maria Island. Remarkable for its long palm-like leaves, it erupts into flower from November until January, startling creamy white flower heads with reddish brown bracts pushing up from the crown of the plant. Best place to see: Tasman Peninsula National Park.

Orchids, e.g. Dipdium roseum. Pink Hyacinth Orchid.

There is nothing quite as thrilling, botanically speaking, as hunting for and then finding orchids. With habitat ranging from rainforest to coastal, the largest diversity of orchids are found in our dry sclerophyll forests along the East Coast. Orchids are so exciting because for most of the year, they are almost invisible. It is only when they flower that we notice them, and even then, they can be tiny and difficult to see. One of the largest, most vibrant and easy to spot is the Pink Hyacinth Orchid, flowering through December and January. Growing up to 90cm tall, the bright pink blooms stand out from the forest floor. Best place to see: Maria Island National Park.

 People walking in Tasmanian Blue Gum forests

Eucalyptus globulus. Tasmanian Blue Gum.

Not only is this gum our State Floral Emblem, it is also one of our most impressive eucalypts and has the largest and sweetest smelling flowers of our native gums. Growing up to 60m high and with a habitat ranging from sea-level to around 500m, the blue gum has large dropping leaves and a beautifully coloured and streaked bark. Highly prized for its quality timber and sold under the name “Tasmanian Oak,” many of the original blue gum forests have been felled, but the pockets that remain provide vital habitat for birds, particularly the Swift Parrot, as the flowers of the mature trees have a greater nutritional value than younger plantation trees. Maria Island has some of the biggest stands of old growth blue gum forest in Tasmania. Flowering in pockets from October until January, coastal blue gum forests provide spectacular walking. Best place to see: Maria Island National Park.

 

The guides on The Maria Island Walk are incredibly knowledgeable and passionate about Tasmanian flora. For more information about a four day guided walk, contact The Maria Island Walk on 03 6234 2999 or book online.

 

 

The Maria Island Walk Wins Gold at the Australian Tourism Awards

The Maria Island Walk was judged the nation’s top Ecotourism operation at the 2019 Australian Tourism Awards in Canberra in March.

Owner Ian Johnstone said that it was an honour to have won the award, which came as our fifth time winning gold at a national level at these awards. The award follows a successful year for the walk, which also featured in Tourism Australia’s ‘Philausophy’ campaign and was named in Flight Centre’s ‘WOW List’ of their top 50 must-have global travel experiences for 2020.

The walk, which is in its 17th year of operation, is the ultimate in authentic, cultural, small group tourism and it is easy to understand why it is regarded amongst Australia’s top experiences.

We are honoured and want to say a big thank you for your continuous support.

To find out more about The Maria Island Walk, call us on 03 62342999 or book online.

 

 

 

 

Maria Island’s Painted Cliffs & Fossil Cliffs

Tasmania’s coastline is rugged and spectacular, and there are few places to better appreciate this than Maria Island. With unique and fascinating geology, Maria Island is a top destination for the geologist, whether professional or amateur. But not all of us are fascinated by rocks and the almost incomprehensible spans of time that went into making them. Fortunately for us, we do not have to be geologists to appreciate grandeur and be dwarfed by scale; sensations no visitor to Maria Island’s cliffs can escape.

The Painted Cliffs

Just a short half hour amble from Darlington, these picturesque sandstone cliffs are streaked and patterned with iron oxide layers, giving them a fascinating painted appearance. Requiring a low tide and calm seas for access, the tidal pools surrounding them make for excellent snorkelling. Viewed during midday, the cliffs are beautiful and intriguing, but come fully into their own on a sunny afternoon when the evening light strikes the pale sandstone, warming it to rich buttery golden colours and creating a photographer’s paradise.

The Painted Cliffs are made up of Triassic sandstone, when large rivers deposited deep layers of sand across broad flood plains some 200-250 million years ago. This sand was then compressed over time to form the soft rock we see today. The iron oxide patterning was deposited much more recently, within the last 10 million years, when Tasmania was experiencing a monsoonal climate. Extreme rainfall events leached out iron from the dolerite rocks above the sandstone, seeping into the softer rock through natural weaknesses in its layering. This very wet time was then followed by periods of extreme dryness, which drew the water back to the surface, leaving the iron oxide behind to be eroded and exposed by rising sea levels to reveal the patterns we see today.

The Painted Cliffs at Maria Island

The Fossil Cliffs

Perhaps the most visually striking place on the Island, no visit to Maria is complete without walking up to Skipping Ridge and the Fossil Cliffs. Towering over 100m in places and plunging straight into the ocean, cresting that final rise and looking out across the ocean never fails to make the heart skip and the breath catch. Exposed by weathering and erosion, and then a convenient platform cut out by an industrious limestone quarrier in the 1920s, the Fossil Cliffs provide some of the most prolific and best-preserved fossils you will see in Tasmania, if not in the world. Even for someone who is not particularly fascinated by geology or fossils in general, it is impossible to not be struck by wonder when walking over a whole cliff entirely made up of ancient shells.

During the early Permian, some 300 million years ago, when Tasmania was still a part of the supercontinent of Gondwana, an Ice Age developed, with ice sheets and glaciers forming over much of what is now Tasmania, levelling out mountains and gouging deep fjord-like valleys. Shallow seas penetrated far inland across much of Australia, and layers of mudstone and siltstone began to accumulate. In this cold shallow sea, marine life flourished, in particular bivalve molluscs, the most common and well known being trigonia shells. As these animals lived and died, their shells built up and compressed into the limestone layers we see today. In amongst the limestone and fossils, it is possible to see many drop stones, usually rounded and smooth from being tumbled and eroded by flowing water and ice. These are rocks older than the limestone, carried here by glaciers and icebergs and then dropped onto the shallow seafloor as the ice melted, being incorporated into the seabed and grown over by the bivalves.

The Fossil Cliffs played a major role in Maria Island’s much more recent human history, as it was the limestone here that brought Italian entrepreneur Diego Bernacchi back to the island in the early 1920s to open up one of the most sophisticated industrial cement works in the southern hemisphere. Although short-lived and ultimately unsuccessful, it briefly transformed the island into a bustling centre of industry, and also cut out vast areas of the cliffs, making viewing the fossils much easier for contemporary visitors. A combination of poor quality limestone, the abundance of super-hard drop stones that kept damaging crushing machines, remoteness, poor anchorage, and ultimately the Great Depression all led to the collapse of the cement works, but it has left a legacy that continues to fascinate visitors to this day.

The Fossil Cliffs at Maria Island

How to Get There

Take a four day guided Maria Island Walk to visit and learn more about these fascinating geological features. Contact The Maria Island Walk on 03 6234 2999 for more information or book online.

 

 

The Maria Island Walk Featured in ‘8 of Tasmania’s Best Hikes’

Tasmania is the ultimate hiking playground. Australian Traveller have shared their list of 8 of Tasmania’s best hikes, and The Maria Island Walk features.

“If you appreciate tranquility, Maria Island ticks all the right boxes”

Australian Traveller say “Pristine Maria Island, located off Tasmania’s east coast, is a place of historic ruins, rugged cliffs and mountains, breathtaking bays and wide beaches. It’s also home to a plethora of wildlife including wombats, Tasmanian devils, wallabies, eastern grey kangaroos, a number of unique birds and dolphins, whales and seals.

Hikers will spend their days walking this spectacular wilderness and their nights dining on three-course candlelit dinners accompanied by local wines and beer. There’s also an option to book a porter to transfer luggage between camps.”

You can read the rest of their article here.

To find out more about The Maria Island Walk, call us on 03 62342999 or book online.

 

 

 

Our Tasmanian Food Trail

Tasmania is synonymous with food. Renowned for its fresh seasonal produce, gourmet cuisine and fine wine, there is no better way to take in this delicious fare than a self-drive exploration of our island state, stopping to sample different areas’ offerings, discovering hidden gems and taking in our breath-taking landscapes along the way. Summer is the best time to feast on our seasonal produce, with different fruits coming into their own as the season progresses. December and early January is the best time of year for berries, with cherries ripening hot on their heels through January, apricots coming on towards the end of January and February, the grapes begin to be picked in March, and then the apple harvest starts in April and continues through May.

There are some hot-spots of gastronomic delight, and below is a ten-day itinerary to take in some of the best food the state has to offer.

Cheese and bread from the Bruny Island Cheese Co

A Ten Day Tasmanian Food Trail

Days 1-3: The Huon Valley and Bruny Island

Starting in Hobart, head south down to Huonville. With some lovely accommodation options, the Huon Valley is renowned for its apples. If in season, be sure to stop off and buy some fresh, crispy apples from one of the many roadside stalls. No visit down south would be complete without a visit to Willie Smith’s Cider Shed and Apple Museum, as well as the beautiful building that houses Frank’s Cider and Café. From Huonville, head south-east to Cygnet, stopping for a well-earned treat at the Red Velvet Lounge and to soak up the folksy vibes of this lovely little town. Continue on through the pretty villages of Woodbridge and Kettering and then board the short 20min ferry to Bruny Island. This lovely island is famous for its cheese, oysters and chocolates, as well as its spectacular beaches and epic coastlines. Be sure to stop off at the Bruny Island Cheese and Brewing Co, as well as pausing to sample some oysters. After an overnight stop on the island, head back to Hobart. No visit to Hobart would be complete with browsing through the bustling Salamanca Market, held every Saturday by the waterfront. Or, for a more authentic experience, visit the Farmers Market, held in the CBD every Sunday. There you will find local seasonal produce and the best gourmet products the state has to offer, all crowded together on one bustling street.

Days 4-6: The Derwent Valley

Follow the Derwent River West out of Hobart to New Norfolk, pausing to grab some fresh cherries from The Cherry Hut at Granton. New Norfolk is the guardian of one of Tasmania’s best gourmet secrets, the Agrarian Kitchen. Housed in beautifully restored historic buildings and boasting more raving reviews than many much more ostentatious establishments, the Agrarian Kitchen prides itself on ethical, locally sourced food prepared simply and presented beautifully. With warm friendly service and great wine, this is one stop not to be missed. Continuing up the picturesque river, stop off at the Westerway Raspberry Farm for some delicious Tasmanian ice-cream and fresh berries. There you can amble through the berry canes and pick as much as you can carry. There are fewer more pleasant ways to pass a sunny afternoon than in the raspberry and blackberry rows by the banks of the Tyenna River. After visiting Mt Field National Park, continue up to the historic town of Hamilton, where Jackson’s Emporium offers a delightful selection of curios and tasty food. Stop off at Two Metre Tall Brewery for an afternoon of pizza and beer.

Agrarian Kitchen and Eatery dining room

Days 7-8: Coal River Valley

This area, only half an hour from Hobart, boasts a plethora of wineries and the excellent eateries attached to them. Stay a night in historic Richmond and spend a few days driving leisurely from vineyard to vineyard. Some of the stand-outs are Frogmore Creek, Every Man and His Dog, and Puddleduck. Richmond also offers a market every Saturday which is well worth exploring, as well as having an array of cafes and an excellent bakery.

Days 9-10: The East Coast

A delightful combination of spectacular scenery and excellent wineries await the gastronomic adventurer along the East Coast. Passing first Maria Island, where visitors can enjoy the four day guided Maria Island Walk which showcases much of the state’s produce as well as local wines, continue north towards Freycinet. Some of the showcase vineyards along the way include Gala Estate, Milton (which produces some lovely dessert wines), and Devil’s Corner. Kate’s Berry Farm just before Swansea offers delicious food and sweet treats. Stop off at Freycinet National Park for some glorious scenery and several restaurants in Coles Bay. For a real treat, stay a night or two at Saffire Freycinet, one of Australia’s premier luxury experiences, and dive headfirst into the best Tasmania has to offer. Leaving Freycinet behind, continue North towards St Helens. Ironhouse Brewery, just before St Helens, is a must stop.

Tapas and wine at the Milton Vineyard

This itinerary is just a taster of the culinary delights Tasmania has to offer. With more and more restaurants, cafes, distilleries and farm-gate ventures starting up every year, it is hard to imagine a better place to embark on a gastronomic adventure against the backdrop of pristine wilderness and fertile farmland.

If you’re looking for an experience where everything is taken care of for you, including all of the transportation and accommodation, take a four day guided Maria Island Walk. Our guides prepare restaurant quality meals using local produce and each evening serve a 3 course, candlelit dinner under the stars complimented by award winning Tasmanian wines. Contact 03 6234 2999 for more information or book online.

 

 

Must See Tasmanian Wildlife

The breathtaking splendour of wild animals, and the joy of close-up encounters with them, draws people to isolated places all over the world.

Here in Australia we’re blessed with a suite of animals that are found nowhere else. Sadly, a number of these special animals have disappeared from mainland Australia – including Tasmanian devils and several quoll species. The good news is that these mainland-missing animals are still easily seen in Tasmania.

There are several places around Tasmania where you’re guaranteed to see special animals and birds, but arguably none better than Maria Island National Park.

My island home

Here’s the thing about islands.

If a landmass is sufficiently separate from other landmasses its plants and animals get to go their own way, biologically speaking.

Over time, a nudge here from natural selection and a prod there from human – or some other – intervention and, hey presto, you’ve got yourself an island with a whole lot of interesting critters.

And islands are of course surrounded by water, which can, depending on the location, increase one’s chance of seeing marine creatures.

What’s really special about Maria is that it’s an island off another island (Tasmania) off another island (mainland Australia). And a chain of events led to it being declared a wildlife reserve nearly 50 years ago.

Ark Maria

In 1962, the Tasmanian Animals and Birds Protection Board – forerunner of today’s Parks and Wildlife Service – recommended setting Maria aside as a reserve for endangered animals.

There’d been concerns for some years about the effects on native animals of population spread and land clearing for agriculture. The remarkable Tasmanian tiger, or thylacine, hadn’t been seen in the wild for decades, and was feared extinct. By the later 1960s, hydro-electric developments helped focus these concerns into an organised conservation movement, and ultimately the world’s first green political party – the United Tasmania Group.

Throughout the 1960s, Maria Island’s agricultural properties were acquired and livestock removed. Starting in 1969, endangered species were introduced. The mammals included forester kangaroos, Bennett’s wallabies, wombats and brush-tailed possums. Birds included Cape Barren geese and Tasmanian native hens.

In 1971 Maria island was declared a Wildlife Sanctuary and it was proclaimed a national park in 1972. The associated Maria Island Marine Reserve, off the island’s north-east coast, was declared in 1991.

With a few exceptions, the island’s introduced birds and animals and its protected marine species have thrived.

Devilish times

In 2012, Maria’s ‘rock star’ introduced species arrived: a small, healthy population of endangered Tasmanian devils.

At times so widespread and prevalent in Tasmania that they were commonly seen as roadkill, devils had been in decline since 1996, when the transmissible cancer known as Devil Facial Tumour Disease (DFTD) was first identified. There are now two known strains of DFTD; they account for a third of all known transmissible cancers.

Maria’s devils were intended to breed and provide healthy, wild-born individuals for re-introduction to mainland Tasmania. At this, they’ve been outrageously successful.

In just a few years the devils bred up to a population of around 100. Scores of Maria-bred devils have been trapped and removed from the island to keep population numbers in check.

Where to see animals on Maria

In short: everywhere, and that’s the joy of the place. Even on the most-used island walk, between Darlington ferry wharf and the historic precinct, people see Cape Barren geese, native hens and wombats – the latter in broad daylight.

Here’s a brief list of the animals you’ll encounter on Maria, and the most likely places to see them.

Forester kangaroos

Foresters – known as grey kangaroos in mainland Australia – are commonly seen on the grasslands surrounding the landing strip and, often in the evening, just north of Darlington, near Bernacchis Creek.

Foresters were once common in agricultural areas of Tasmania but by the 1950s and ‘60s their former population had been reduced by more than 80%. Today they’re seen mainly at Mt William, Narawntapu and Maria Island national parks.

Wombats

Maria’s wombat population numbers in the thousands and they’re seen everywhere, including in the middle of the Darlington quadrangle, around the camping ground, and on the hillside around Ruby Hunt’s cottage. Wombats are mostly nocturnal but they’re always seen in daylight hours on Maria. Sometimes so many of them graze in the same area they almost appear to be a herd of small cows.

Recent research has confirmed that the common wombats introduced to Maria in the early 1970s are the subspecies Vombatus ursinus ursinus, which was once found throughout the Bass Strait islands but is now found only on Flinders Island. The subspecies Vombatus ursinus tasmaniensis is found on mainland Tasmania. Both are distinct from the Australian mainland common wombat, Vombatus ursinus hirsutus.

Tasmanian devils

Maria Island’s devil population boomed after the marsupials were introduced and, given that they’re opportunistic carrion-eaters, it’s not unusual to see them lurking around the Darlington precinct, especially near the barbecues in the camping area. A female named Nutella, released on the island in 2013, famously raised her young in a den under the Darlington Penitentiary verandah. They’ve also been seen in other parts of the island, and sometimes during the day

Maria’s devils are among the best studied in Australia and the distinctive carnivore traps used by researchers – a wide-diameter PVC pipe with trapdoor lid – can sometimes be seen in scrub just off tracks near Darlington, and in other locations.

Cape Barren geese

These large, handsome birds are a common sight on the lawns around Darlington and the nearby airstrip grasslands. Their distinctive grumpy honking is one of the island’s more common sounds.

Cape Barren geese are found right along the southern coast of Australia and the population is considered secure and stable. But in the 1950s their numbers were so low that biologists feared for the species’ survival.

Marine mammals

Common and bottle-nosed dolphins are regularly seen, sometimes in large pods, in the Mercury Passage, which separates Maria from mainland Tasmania. Long-finned pilot whales are also common in these waters, and unfortunately the whale most likely to strand on Maria’s beaches. Humpback whales can be seen in the Passage during early winter, on their northwards migration, and in late spring, when they’re on their way back to Antarctica.

There’s a large Australian fur seal haul-out at Ile des Phoques, about 20 km north of Maria Island, and seals are a common sight in waters along the Fossil Cliffs and in Fossil Bay, and from time to time in Darlington Bay.

Help from the guides

Experienced trekking guides, such as the Maria Island Walk’s, are an invaluable asset for wildlife- and bird spotting, especially when it comes to the more obscure species. Because they’re constantly sharing information with their fellow guides they’ll usually know where the forty-spotted pardalotes have been seen, and they’ll have you recognizing the difference between kelp and Pacific gulls in no time.

And bear in mind that you won’t need the help of guides to see many of Maria’s animals – in some parts of the island you’ll virtually be tripping over them!

 

Camping vs Glamping – What’s right for you?

Everyone knows what camping looks like, right? It’s a rustic pastime involving tents, campfires, badly cooked food and, usually, an absence of showers.

As is the case with so many things, this impression of camping is neither entirely true, nor completely false.

It is the reason why a lot of people would rather walk barefoot in a broken-glass desert than consider a camping holiday.

But what if they could go glamping, instead?

What’s the difference between camping and glamping? Glad you asked.

 

More than just names?

 

You’d think that changing a couple consonants at the start of a word can’t do much, and broadly that’s true. The ‘g’ and ‘l’ in glamping are derived from glamourous – so, glamourous camping.

Add glamour to camping and you make a new word, but not one that necessarily describes a new activity. Centuries ago European royals and Ottoman grandees were bedding down outside their palaces in, well, palatial style. And a fancy-camping African safari was quite the done thing in the 1920s for well-to-do Brits and Americans.

The word ‘glamping’ first appeared in media travel stories in the early 2000s. The Oxford English Dictionary included it from 2016. The debate among outdoorsy types as to whether it’s a good thing or not will continue forever, and is really by the by.

Like camping, glamping’s here to stay.

 

It’s all about nature

Let’s take a look – somewhat counter-intuitively – at what camping and glamping have in common.

As this fast-paced, crazy world gets ever faster and crazier, it’s widely acknowledged that we humans – especially those of us in developed Western nations – are losing our connection to the natural world.

What we’re gaining is anything but good: depression, anxiety, substance addictions, loneliness, destructive consumption and spinal problems from too much sitting around indoors, to name but a few.

Nature is the ultimate restorative, and conveniently it’s just outside.

 

“Those who dwell among the beauties and mysteries of the earth are never alone or weary of life,” wrote Rachel Carson, marine biologist and acclaimed author of Silent Spring.

“I felt my lungs inflate with the onrush of scenery – air, mountains, trees, people,” wrote poet Sylvia Plath. “I thought, this is what it is to be happy.”

Forget spa treatments and vitamin supplements. You just have to work out a way to get into the wild.

 

 

 

A certain quality

 

And thus you say: that’s all very well, but there’s no way I’m ever going to buy a tent, a rucksack and a camping stove. Even if I did I wouldn’t know how to use them, and by the way, do tents have USB outlets?

Okay. At a first reading it seems that you’re more likely to get into nature if you consider glamping. That’s cool – there’s no absolute right and wrong here.

Most dictionaries define glamour as an exciting or attractive quality, one that makes things – people, places or activities – seem more appealing.

All you have to do is determine what appeals to you.

 

For and against

 

For the sake of this exercise, let’s assume that your nature-based experience is going to include walking. (Strictly, this would make our comparison hiking vs gliking, but we’re sure you’ll allow us some latitude).

 

Camping

  • Cohort: can be done alone or with friends
  • Support: little or none; expect to be fully independent. You choose where to go, what you’ll do and how long you’ll stay
  • Preparation: will require you to do your own planning, booking, shopping and packing
  • Load: medium to high range (minimum typically 12–14kg; can be a lot more for a long walk). Will include a sleeping bag, tent, camping mattress, stove, fuel, all food, and all personal gear
  • Sleeping quarters: tent. Additional shelter: natural features such as vegetation and rock formations, or a lightweight tarp if you choose to carry it
  • Food: cooked yourself, fresh or preserved, depending on how much you wish to carry; alcoholic beverages served only if you carry them yourself
  • Bathing: creeks, rivers, waterfalls and oceans
  • Toilets: possibly at some camp sites, otherwise you’re, er, observing wild toileting protocols
  • Heating: none, or possibly a fire, if you’re in an area and walking at a time when fires are permitted
  • Price: low to medium range, depending on factors including travel distance from home and transport and any additional accommodation required
  • Additional notes: if you learn to navigate, you’ll have the opportunity to visit and experience trackless wilderness

Our glamping experience

  • Cohort: small group (maximum 10)
  • Support: high. Departures run on a fixed itinerary and all are led by two guides
  • Preparation: choose a departure date and make a booking; a gear list will be supplied and on departure day your guides will offer packing advice and assistance
  • Load: low range (6–8kg) unless you take heavier additional personal items, such as camera equipment. Includes lunch and personal gear. Portered – pack-free – walks for an additional fee available on some departures
  • Sleeping quarters: huts with beds at bush camps on nights one and two; fully appointed rooms in historic Bernacchi House on night three. Additional shelter at camps: communal dining tent
  • Food: Specially curated menu using gourmet Tasmanian produce cooked by guides. All fresh ingredients carried by guides. Wine served with meals included in trip fee
  • Bathing: outdoor showers and a ‘bathing cabin’ at bush camps; guides heat water for a quick clean/rinse. Modern bathrooms with hot water at Bernacchi House
  • Heating: gas heaters in the dining tents at bush camps; two wood-burning stoves at Bernacchi House
  • Price: medium to high range, in addition to factors including travel distance from home and any additional accommodation required
  • Additional notes: Complimentary pick-up at Hobart accommodation and drop-off either at Hobart airport or accommodation. Trip fee includes all road and maritime transport to and from the walk

For more information about The Maria Island Walk please visit https://www.mariaislandwalk.com.au/the-walk/the-accommodation/

 

What do the experts say?

 

Ian Johnstone is something of a paradox: he’s a lifetime independent camper/hiker who decided to start a glamping trip: The Maria Island Walk.

“I kept meeting people who said they’d love to go camping or hiking but didn’t know how to, and I also thought that Maria Island was one of the most beautiful and remarkable places I’d ever seen,” Ian says. “I knew that people would feel fabulous and rejuvenated if they had a holiday in such a place.”

It took a lot of work with Parks and Wildlife Tasmania to get all environmental safeguards and permissions in place, but the result was exactly what Ian had hoped: an achievable adventure and reconnection with nature for people who’d otherwise miss out.

“I’m not sure the word ‘glamping’ is my favourite, but it’s true that The Maria Island Walk is much more comfortable than camping,” Ian says. “I just love hearing from our guests about how much they enjoyed the island, and the walk, and how fab their guides were. That’s what we’re all about.”